Beiträge von DeXa

Zitat von Andre

How did you solve it at the end?

I am with the old knob so I used a 90.8 ohm resistor. At the moment I'm using a separate button till I manage to find a knob. Only byte 88 is important 115 is for Android Auto / Apple Carplay. In your case you can use Arduino to send the right string over CAN-A. Without the knob, you cannot activate it properly. Old versions need 90.8 ohms at pin 3 of connector H on body computer. Newer like yours need single CAN command to activate, but you need someone with knob like yours to sniff the can and get the right command (knob in RACE). Other way (from github and Adrduino), wont work. There are at least 10 messages that must be changed and sent in order to instruct all computers that the car is in RACE mode. The best way for you is with knob, or someone to sniff and see what the CAN based knob is sending.

PROXI byte 115 is not necessary. In my case changing it kills CarPlay/Android Auto.

Issues so far:

No sound enhancement;

Throttle map the same in all modes;

Good things:

Nannies are gone;

Gear shifts are insanely fast;

Dampers have all 3 modes and the difference can be felt;

Enabled mine it is working, besides the problem with throttle map, no other issues for now. I am still looking for a knob though

Ok did some digging. Maybe you can trigger race mode via CAN, you just need to find what to send. Here is the explanation for the new switch:

The dna system selector H155 receives power - pin 4 - from the line protected by fuse F21 of boot junction box B045; pin 2 is earthed.Selector H155 is then connected, via CAN - from pins 1 and 3 - to the other nodes, in particular the steering control unit M086, the ABS-VDC control unit M050, and the engine control unit M010. It is also connected to the instrument panel E050 to which it sends the signals to display the mode engaged and system failure.The Body Computer M001 - connector A - receives direct battery power via the line protected by maxi fuse F72 of the maxi fuse box on the battery B099. The Body Computer M001 receives an ignition-controlled power supply (INT) on pin 12 of connector H from the signal from the radio frequency module M204. Pins 1 and 11 of connector G of M001 provide the Body Computer with a reference earth.

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Here is the description for cars before 2019:

The DNA system selector H155 receives power supply - pin 1 - from the ignition-operated line (INT) protected by fuse F51 of Body Computer M001; pin 6 is earthed.The selector H155 sends an analogue signal to the Body Computer M001 according to the selected mode, from pin 5 of H155 to pin 21 of connector H on M001; the signal for the corresponding LED is sent from pin 9 of H155 to pin 6 of connector H on M001.It also sends the analogue signal for the "race" function to pin 3 of connector H on M001.The Body Computer M001 - connector A - receives direct battery power via the line protected by maxi fuse F72 of the maxi fuse box on the battery B099. The Body Computer M001 receives an ignition-controlled power supply (INT) on pin 12 of connector H from the signal from the radio frequency module M204. Pins 1 and 11 of connector G of M001 provide the Body Computer with a reference earth.The Body Computer M001 is connected, via the CAN, to the other nodes, in particular the steering control unit M086, the ABS-VDC control unit M050 and the engine management control unit M010. It is also connected to the instrument panel E050 to which it sends the signals to display the mode engaged and system failure.

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So I only need to send proper analog signal to pin 3 of connector H on the Body Computer, but I don't know the proper resistance. Can you measure the pins of the switch you've got and that is not the one for you?

Yeah .. I know, this is the emergency plan.

What is the part number of the switch you ordered? It is the right one for me.

Also what are you injecting in CAN to test?

With the sniffer I can experiment :). There seems to be no other way.

There is one QV in the local dealership I can shiff that one.

And these are the only 2 that are different ? 88 and 115? I will try to get CANABLE to sniff the CAN so I can see what is changing.

He has QV ?

Here is my PROXI

30 34 36 33 30 31 33 39 32 38 36 4F 55 54 50 55 54 2D 53 49 54 20 18 02 05 4F 0C 40 65 10 00 19 02 2A 00 00 00 C0 40 00 00 4B 0C 00 65 10 00 19 02 0A 00 00 00 C0 40 00 00 43 5D 27 01 A9 82 08 D4 54 37 A8 07 40 20 10 0A A7 1E 04 72 00 35 73 14 01 4F 03 34 1D 8B B4 48 2C 43 05 00 80 00 0E 92 00 00 1A 04 00 89 00 5E FA 07 06 E5 01 31 00 01 75 15 00 81 10 01 00 CB 00 F7 10 10 00 3D 49 03 03 12 F9 57 20 00 00 01 00 00 80 20 08 18 81 0A 00 00 00 00 00 0E 56 00 00 00 40 B1 00 00 00 03 00 02 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

How did you figure out these values:

Byte 88 from B4 to D4

and

Byte 115 from 15 to 16

Mine is not with GPF/PPF, so it may be different?

I don't know if it sends can command, ot it is just analog signal.

See attachment.

Today i disassembled mine, removed the 2 notches, but it didn't work. Mine is with 2 internal micro switches. So now I need a real one

Also the PROXI thing, didn't work on mine. It only changed the IPC to yellow (when injected via CAN), but nothing else. It however made the car drive the same way (except gear changes) in all modes (D/N/A). I mean throttle map and dampers.

P.S. And it also killed ACC (that was very strange). There were no fault codes.

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